Hiking in Chimanimani after Cyclone Idai

Three months on from Cyclone Idai, the destruction in Chimanimani was clear.

Giant stone boulders and clumps of wet clay lay piled up at the roadside as our overland truck snaked slowly up the Zimbabwean mountains.

Nearing the campsite, we passed hundreds of international aid tents where families waited in limbo.

Entire villages were left abandoned where brick and mud houses were ripped apart and gardens were clawed open.

The deadly current dragged trees and rocks down the mountain side, tearing through windows, dismantling tin roofs and wiping out everything in its path.

Destruction from Cyclone Idai Chimanimani Zimbabwe
Destruction from Cyclone Idai

It was clear that the cyclone had rocked the community but it had not broken its spirit.

The people here are kind and friendly. They still smile as you pass and wave at us from the road. There is a sense of togetherness and a shared strength.

“Life is life and life must go on“ I was told by an employee at Heavens Lodge where half a dozen men are working to rebuild the campsite.

Chimanimani landslide damage Cyclone Idai
Rebuilding homes taken by Cyclone Idai

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Despite feeling heavily saddened by the devastation around us, we were humbled to be welcomed into the Chimanimani community and explore its extraordinary landscapes.

The six hikers of our group, myself included, set off at 9am for Greenmount for the ultimate hiking experience.

Rather than taking the tarmac road, we decided to follow the stream to the top, retracing the cyclone’s path.

Hiking in Chimanimani after Cyclone Idai
Hiking towards Greenmount Chimanimani

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It was one of the most challenging hikes I have done to date and certainly the most sentimental. We scaled the mountain, gripping onto the remnants of its slopes.

Cyclone Idai The Facts

  • Cyclone Idai first struck in Mozambique on March 14, 2019
  • It then moved inland reaching Zimbabwe the following day
  • Less than six weeks later Cyclone Kenneth tore through Mozambique in late April
  • More than two million people were affected by the storms in Zimbabwe, Mozambique and Malawi according to World Vision
  • Hundreds of people lost their lives while survivors still feel the affects of Cyclone Idai and Kenneth today

The hillside had been defaced with deep gorges and new cliffs, where clay boulders crumbled under our feet as we struggled to climb.

As we neared the top, the ground became less stable and we hugged the slopes for safety, shouting down to one another at falling rocks.

Hiking in Mount Green Chimanimani
Meadows towards the peak

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As we popped our heads over its peak, we released a sigh of relief and collapsed onto our backs taking in the epic scenery – a panoramic view of the valley and mountains on the Mozambique border.

The ground was now firm as we traversed sweeping meadows and through the long dry grass. We sprawled across rocks, ran down hills and stood staring at the views.

For the return journey we opted for a well used trail with more sturdy footing and wound through tall evergreen trees to Chimanimani village.

It was as I would expect US national parks to be, with bold mountains, tall trees and rich colours.

How to hike Mount Green Chimanimani Zimbabwe
Greenmount peak

Travel in Zimbabwe: Watch the video here

My time in Chimanimani was hands down in my top three experiences during my Oasis overland trip through east and southern Africa.

It is a place that tugs at the heart strings with a huge heart of its own.

Laura x

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