In the heart of Africa lies Zambia, where emerald landscapes unfurl beneath blue skies – a breathtaking backdrop for a first-time arrival
It’s rainy season here in Zambia. It’s bright, it’s humid and it’s very green.
The heat is engulfing.
It hits your face the moment you exit the plane and wraps around you like the warmest of blankets.
A strong breeze sends my hair spiralling and I attempt to tuck it into the waist of my full-length skirt, which I’m asked to wear in my role here as a volunteer team leader.
I’m here on a cross-cultural sustainable development project with Restless Development, a youth-led charity supporting young people to lead the way on creating social change, from ending Aids to tackling misinformation and influencing global decision-makers.
The sun hits my skin as we exit Kenneth Kaunda International Airport and are greeted by our programme coordinator, who is wearing a warm smile. ‘I’m Norah,’ she says slowly, as if letting us into a friendly secret.
Norah leads us to a four-by-four and a driver stacks our belongings into the back before we begin the final leg of our journey.
The main road from the airport is new. This is evident from its pothole free surface, dressed with billboards and freshly mowed grass at either side.
I wasn’t aware I had held any expectations, but this is certainly a surprise. Every other road yonder is a more bumpy affair.
‘Are you hungry?’ Norah asks. She is keen to introduce us to traditional foods at a typical Zambian street market on the outskirts of the capital.
Our jeep pulls into a dusty courtyard lined with concrete shacks on the right hand side, each one painted a different colour.
Norah recommends the barbecue fish grilled on chicken wire above open flames. It’s an impressive setup on the roadside.
The dish is served with nshima, Zambia’s staple food made from ground cornmeal and water, which is accompanied by small side dishes which Norah calls relish. Today, the relish is fried okra with chillies, shredded rape leaves with grilled tomato, and rice.
‘That’s the best bit,’ Norah says.
Diners sat at the table beside us seem unbothered by the flies buzzing around the plates. I’m not as good at ignoring them and try to swat them away as our food arrives.
‘Please,’ the waiter says, gesturing to the side of the building. A plastic tap pokes out of a plastic bucket with a plastic basin underneath – the sink.
After washing out hands, Norah shows us how to eat the nshima which comes as a large ball, served in a communal bowl.
‘Tear off a piece,’ she says.
‘Roll it into a ball with both hands until it is smooth. Now pinch it between your fingers and thumb and make a dip in the middle. Imagine it’s like a spoon to scoop up the sides with. An edible spoon.’
I take a steaming hot white lump which weighs heavy in my hand and has a mild, slightly starchy taste similar to grits.
Its neutral flavour enhances the taste of the side dishes, while the texture is smooth but sticky which helps to hold it together.
Meanwhile, the fish is delicious with a crispy texture.
Our final destination is Pilgrims Lodge in Kabwe city, Chibombo district, where we meet the remaining three team leaders – two who are local and a third who has travelled from Lusaka.
They are all smartly dressed, wearing well-pressed shirts and leather shoes. I feel scruffy in comparison in a chiffon blouse and jeans.
All six of us benefit from 12 days of training before our volunteers arrive, half from the UK and the other half from Zambia.
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The evening is shared with a group meal and a game of cards before we all take a much needed early night.
After training, the volunteers arrive and we group them together for their homestay accommodation which is spread among 12 different communities within the rural district of Kafalulu and the more urban district of Chibombo.
We head off to different corners of the region, and each discover a piece of Zambia all over again.
If you have any questions about the Restless Development project or volunteering in Zambia, please get in touch or visit Restless Development.
